This is my page dedicated to surfing of a different kind -- the wet kind. As I mentioned in my home page, surfing became important to me around the age of 15. My friend & I rented boards at "South Beach" in Miami and after 2 hours we were both hooked.
Our first boards were home-made, really heavy & had no rocker so we spent lots of time "Pearling" (where the board's nose digs under the water - tossing the rider off).
My first real board was a Rick 9'6" longboard which cost $145. I knew I was boss riding my Rick during the winter of "65". One of my best boards was shaped by a guy called "Murph the Surf" who was well known in Miami as a great surfer but was having some well publicized problems with the law.
All of a sudden the Australians were showing the rest of the world that size DID matter with their new "short" boards which, at that time, were 8'3" with a deep V bottom in the tail. We all followed suit using these more maneuverable boards to go places on a wave which we had never dreamed of before. Personally my shortest board was a 6' fun shape.
I shifted to riding "WaveSkis" when I was in my 30's due to a chronic back problem. This is an Australian / South African sport where you use a kayak paddle & sit up on the ski. You drop in, cut back & work the wave as in surfing but you are strapped into this ski with a seat belt & foot straps. I was in the best shape of my life while I was on that waveski.
From there I began windsurfing & collected lots of gear for all the different conditions; 3 boards, 9 sails, 2 masts, 2 booms & on & on. I really enjoyed the sport but after a while the simplicity of a surfboard & a bar of wax began to look pretty good.
Currently, I'm back to surfing a 10' longboard & having a ball. Receiving massage & maintaining my flexibility through stretching have been the key to this comeback.
I recently returned from Hawaii. The surf, weather & sights were really great but most of the well known spots are pretty crowded. Currently I'm on my way back to Melbourne where you can always find an area with few surfers.
Waikiki Photo Links
12/20/00 - Waikiki (Queens)
2/28/01 - Waikiki (Queens)
Page Updated 4/30/01